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<h1>The French classic: pain au levain</h1>
<figure id="attachment_330" style="width: 584px" class="wp-caption aligncenter">[<img class=" wp-image-330" title="2012-07-21 13.24.59" src="https://redzuurdesem.be/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/2012-07-21-13.24.59-1024x682.jpg" alt="" width="584" height="388" srcset="https://redzuurdesem.be/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/2012-07-21-13.24.59-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https://redzuurdesem.be/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/2012-07-21-13.24.59-300x200.jpg 300w, https://redzuurdesem.be/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/2012-07-21-13.24.59-700x466.jpg 700w, https://redzuurdesem.be/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/2012-07-21-13.24.59.jpg 1600w" sizes="(max-width: 584px) 100vw, 584px" />][1]<figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A &#8220;bâtard en levain&#8221;, with an exceptional crust.</figcaption></figure>
<p>What could possibly be a better introduction than a closeup of a bâtard with a nice &#8220;<em>ear</em>&#8220;, inviting you to tear up and feast upon? French country bread is so rewarding and so easy to make, it&#8217;s a shame I did not try something like this before! Although <a href="https://redzuurdesem.be/placemarks/baked-my-daily-bread/" title="Baked my daily bread">my daily bread</a> is inspired by <em>Vermont Sourdough</em> and <em>Pain au Levain</em> recipes from Mr. Hamelman, this recipe comes from Mr. Leader&#8217;s &#8220;<strong>local breads</strong>&#8221; book. There are slight differences noticeable but the core remains the same.</p>
<p>The main differences between both books and recipes:</p>
<ol>
<li>I&#8217;ve used a <strong>stiff levain</strong> this time, the &#8220;most traditional&#8221; French recipe. Hamelman uses a liquid levain at 125% (but I used 100%). Right now, I converted the liquid one to a stiff one.</li>
<li>Instead of <strong>stretch &amp; fold</strong>-ing, Mr. Leader calls it &#8220;<strong>turning the dough</strong>&#8220;. The physical action is different but it has the same effect on the dough: it gets stretched and tightens again.</li>
<li><strong>Much more wholewheat flour</strong> added to the mix in this recipe. The classic <em>pain au levain</em> from &#8220;BREAD&#8221; contains only 5% wholegrain flour.<figure style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignleft"></li>
</ol>
<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-F7t4j9uaDgE/UAsJgE-l4PI/AAAAAAAAGZU/R8OwR5cGR8k/s1024/2012-07-21%25252008.54.20.jpg" title="2012-07-21 08.54.20.jpg"><img title="2012-07-21 08.54.20.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-F7t4j9uaDgE/UAsJgE-l4PI/AAAAAAAAGZU/R8OwR5cGR8k/s300-c/2012-07-21%25252008.54.20.jpg" alt="2012-07-21 08.54.20.jpg" width="300" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A section of the refreshed stiff levain.</figcaption></figure> <figure style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EAUnk6gPbvM/UAsJg-n5K_I/AAAAAAAAGZc/Y3Xrene24s8/s1024/2012-07-21%25252011.41.04.jpg" title="2012-07-21 11.41.04.jpg"><img title="2012-07-21 11.41.04.jpg" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EAUnk6gPbvM/UAsJg-n5K_I/AAAAAAAAGZc/Y3Xrene24s8/s300-c/2012-07-21%25252011.41.04.jpg" alt="2012-07-21 11.41.04.jpg" width="300" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The bâtards ready to be proofed on a couche.</figcaption></figure></p>
<h1 style="clear: both;">
The recipe
</h1>
<p><strong>preferment</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>45gr stiff levain starter (50% hydratation, white flour)</li>
<li>50gr water</li>
<li>95gr all purpose flour</li>
<li>5gr stone-ground organic wholewheat flour</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>watch out</strong> though, this brings the preferment to 150gr in total but you&#8217;ll only need 125gr for the final build. I&#8217;ve been confused by the ratios and the metric weights in this book a lot, and there&#8217;s never a summary on the builds, which is quite irritating. I assume Leader always pinches a bit off his preferment to keep for the next baking session. Although I&#8217;ve seen &#8220;discard the rest&#8221; a lot&#8230; That&#8217;s just stupid, I&#8217;ll need to rearrange this. Anyway, it&#8217;s a <strong>50%</strong> hydratation starter with <strong>5%</strong> wholewheat.</p>
<p><strong>final build</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>350gr water</li>
<li>350gr all purpose flour</li>
<li>120gr wholewheat flour</li>
<li>30gr wholerye flour</li>
<li>125gr levain starter</li>
<li>10gr sea salt</li>
</ul>
<p>Remarks: 24% wholewheat (baker&#8217;s percentage!), <strong>70%</strong> hydratation, <strong>25% </strong>preferment present in the final build. That&#8217;s more than usual for a &#8220;pain au levain&#8221; recipe, and I like it that way. Bulk fermentation: 3-4 hours including 1 stretch &amp; fold after 1 hour. Final proofing: 1 hour.<figure style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignleft"></p>
<p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-dEyWFd4JyOo/UAsJkj8_UVI/AAAAAAAAGZs/J6W11CMncRg/s1024/2012-07-21%25252016.32.57.jpg" title="2012-07-21 16.32.57.jpg"><img title="2012-07-21 16.32.57.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-dEyWFd4JyOo/UAsJkj8_UVI/AAAAAAAAGZs/J6W11CMncRg/s300-c/2012-07-21%25252016.32.57.jpg" alt="2012-07-21 16.32.57.jpg" width="300" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">Can you spot the yeasted and the levain versions?</figcaption></figure> <figure style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-JkGtxII8pZI/UAsJjOJbcoI/AAAAAAAAGZk/9PVcuqfYVSA/s1024/2012-07-21%25252016.22.23.jpg" title="2012-07-21 16.22.23.jpg"><img title="2012-07-21 16.22.23.jpg" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-JkGtxII8pZI/UAsJjOJbcoI/AAAAAAAAGZk/9PVcuqfYVSA/s300-c/2012-07-21%25252016.22.23.jpg" alt="2012-07-21 16.22.23.jpg" width="300" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">The finished bâtards.</figcaption></figure> <figure style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-eC3WFuF-tRg/UAsJmyX3vjI/AAAAAAAAGZ8/jEKONTMutWs/s1024/2012-07-21%25252016.30.40.jpg" title="2012-07-21 16.30.40.jpg"><img title="2012-07-21 16.30.40.jpg" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-eC3WFuF-tRg/UAsJmyX3vjI/AAAAAAAAGZ8/jEKONTMutWs/s300-c/2012-07-21%25252016.30.40.jpg" alt="2012-07-21 16.30.40.jpg" width="300" height="300" /></a><figcaption class="wp-caption-text">A section look at the crumb. Left: levain, right: yeasted.</figcaption></figure></p>
<p style="clear: both;">
I&#8217;ve also made some yeasted straight loaves, also shaped as bâtards because I wanted to practice the shape. The yeasted version was made with about <strong>40% </strong>wholewheat flour (500gr in total for 2 loaves), without any rye. It took me 4 hours from start to finish but they came out a bit tasteless compared to the amazingly mild and pleasant taste the <em>pain au levain</em> has. Can you spot the yeasted version on the pictures above? Yes indeed they also have a lot of nice holes! Great, isn&#8217;t it? That&#8217;s because of the high percentage of water (<strong>70%</strong>) and the nice score.
</p>
<p style="clear: both;">
Actually, there&#8217;s one more thing that I&#8217;ve noticed during this baking session. That&#8217;s <strong>steam</strong>. Yes, steam in the oven. I used to spritz a b
</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p style="clear: both;">
it with a simple plant mister but my scores never turned out into nice <em>ears</em> like the bâtards this time and I had no idea why. I thought it was just bad cutting, but I was wrong! It was <strong>too little steam</strong>, which can cause:
</p>
<p><img class="alignright" title="2012-07-21 16.33.34.jpg" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ydivZlM94To/UAsJlubj-oI/AAAAAAAAGZ0/H7nJaNjhCXQ/s300-c/2012-07-21%25252016.33.34.jpg" alt="2012-07-21 16.33.34.jpg" width="300" height="300" /></p>
<ul>
<li>Too little air pockets to be formed into the crumb</li>
<li>Too little oven spring</li>
<li>The cut to close in the oven instead of blooming open</li>
</ul>
<p>What did I do different this time? This: <strong>a compressed mister</strong> which can release water in a wider angle and at a higher speed using air pressure. This reduces the need to open the oven again and re-mist the sides of the oven because in a conventional oven, steam evaporates too quickly. You could also use lava rocks or a cast-iron skillet with some ice cubes, but the latter could be quite dangerous. Also, if you&#8217;re baking on a sheet pan, the skillet should be placed at the same level otherwise the sheet pan blocks the steam from reaching the bread!</p>
<p>I will submit this post to <a href="http://cindystarblog.blogspot.it/2012/07/announcing-bread-baking-day-52.html">bread baking day #52</a> &#8211; I hope a lot of people will like the result and learn something from it! Also posted on <a href="http://www.wildyeastblog.com/category/yeastspotting/">Yeast Spotting</a></p>
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